Roman Shade Blog

I am writing The Roman Shade Blog to provide personal responses to your requests for knowledge on all aspects of making and installing your own Roman shades. Each post will be given a “category”. These are listed in the right-hand column. If you are contemplating making a Roman shade for a sliding door, check the posts in that category. The most interesting category is “Mess-Ups”. I get lots of inquiries about fixing a problem with a Roman shade. Even if you only want information on top-down shades, be sure to also read the Mess-Ups posts. Perhaps you will avoid your own mess-ups.

Friday, February 24, 2012

February 22 2012 Newsletter


The Ultimate DIY Roman Shades



MAQ of Metairie, Louisiana, USA sent photographs of her 13 inside-mount Roman shades. I call these the Ultimate Do-It-Yourself (DIY) shades because she used old curtains and fabric remnants for every window.

MAQ wrote: "This was the first shade I made. It is in my kitchen. I had left-over linen material which I backed with ThermalSuede lining."



"I trimmed the bottom of the shade with ribbons. One ribbon was black and white check but I dyed it beige to match the checked oak flooring (beige and ebony). The trial curtain went so well, I purchased 12 more kits". Note from Terrell: MAQ used the Hardware Calculator to put together her own kits which included everything (and only the things) she needed for each window shade.




MAQ continues: "Here I took my old gauze curtains and purchased muslin for the backing. I glued the internal battens to the muslin lining so that the glue did not show on the front gauze fabric. The light weight shades give lots of light to the room but still provide privacy when closed.


"I attached three rows of ribbons and sewed buttons across the bottom of these shades. I used beige embroidery thread and silver metallic embroidery thread to attach the buttons." MAQ also made the pillows shown on the day bed. Some of the small ones were made from her stepmother's wedding dress. I told you this is the ultimate DIY project.




MAQ took her old beige dining room curtains (2 panels), dyed them green, cut them into 6 panels and used 2 panels for each of the three windows in her bedroom. The panels were still too narrow, so she cut a remnant of another fabric into three panels and used this as the center. She used dark sage green velvet ribbons to hide the seams of the panels.

You can see photographs of all of MAQ's shades in the Gallery Section of my website. She sent along tons of information on how she made and trimmed the shades that you will want to read.








Safety Standards



There has been a lot of drama surrounding the latest version of the Safety Standards for Corded Window Treatments. We are all currently using the Second Provisional Standards that were released in September of 2010. These standards require shrouding any exposed back lift cords, limiting the distance between the lift rings (so that a child cannot insert his head between the cord and shade), and having an operating cord that does not contain a loop when the shade is fully closed. There are many more requirements, but those are the basic ones that pertain to custom fabric Roman shades.

The Window Treatment industry is currently self-regulated. That means they are voluntarily developing these safety standards in conjunction with the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), the American National Standard Institute (ANSI) and consumer advocates. Some of the recent drama involved a much publicized disagreement between the Window Covering Manufacturers Association attendees and the CPSC Chairman which resulted in the CPSC Chairman leaving the meeting. Press coverage of that meeting painted a pretty grim picture of the hardworking window treatment professionals who are devoting a large portion of their time making their products and fabrication techniques safe.

The Third Provisional Standards were due out in December of 2011. Because of the conflict between the various groups involved in writing the rules and most importantly, the desire to fully test the premises and changes, the new Standards are now in a Beta Test mode. The actual standards will be out within the next few months. We are all hoping that this is the last revision.

A very informative article was written by Ralph Vasami, Executive Director of the Window Covering Manufacturers Association on December 26, 2011. I have pulled out a few paragraphs to give you his perspective: "The latest stories (about the standards process) have failed to mention that in the last 15 years, the industry has redesigned nearly every window-covering product to address and reduce safety risks. The Standard's latest updates, mischaracterized as tweaks in the Press, will go even further in minimizing potential risk. This is the sixth update to the Standard since the first one which was created in 1996.

According to the CPSC, industry safety efforts have resulted in a steady decrease in window covering-related fatalities over the past decade. Some groups are trying to ban corded window blinds without considering if there are feasible alternatives. Currently there is no universal technological fix to cover the wide variety of custom-made, made-to-measure and stock types of window coverings. Nor is there any technological fix to allow consumers to purchase or make (cordless) blinds at a cost comparable to current products. Proposals to ban corded window coverings would result in removing safe products from the market. Raising costs would likely cause consumers to hold onto older products longer and would create a less safe environment. CPSC data shows that more than 80% of incidents occur with older products that don't meet current standards, incorrect consumer installation or not using the product properly. This is why the industry supports the safety education campaign."


Meanwhile, we are all abiding by the September 2010 Standards. I love Roman shades because they can easily be made by most anyone who has a sewing machine, screw driver and hand saw for an amazingly inexpensive price. Let's hope that doesn't change.

Friday, February 10, 2012

February 8 2012 Newsletter


Today's first article shows shades made by CG of Collinsville, Virginia. These inside-mount shades show off the beautiful window trim in her home. The second article continues my "international" series which began with observations on window treatments in France. I spent the last two weeks of January in the Bahamas with our family. We rented a home on Grand Bahama Island. I'm guessing that the shades in the house were purchased in the United States. However, they were definitely made overseas, probably in China, although I couldn't find a "Made in" label.


Over the weekend we had 2-feet of snow in Colorado. I've included two photographs of my days enjoying fine powdery stuff. The first picture shows me walking with my husband on the unbelievably fine powdery sand on Grand Bahama Island. The second one was taken in equally powdery snow during a snowshoe trek. As long as the sun is shining, I enjoy the cold variety of powder. Maybe not as much as the sand, but I do love living in Colorado.








Tan Inside-Mount Roman Shades



CG of Collinsville, Virginia, USA sent photographs of her five classic Roman shades.


CG's dining room window is composed of three separate sections. The middle picture window is flanked by two smaller casement windows. She made three separate shades. Looking at the window trim, I'm guessing she could not make one large inside-mount shade because of the two vertical trim pieces. This actually is a great choice since she may want the center shade closed at night, leaving the two side shades partially raised to allow air into the room.



This photograph shows CG's kitchen shade. Roman shades work great over a sink since they sit back from the work area. She matched the hardware in her kitchen by using an antique bronze finish for both the cleat and the cord drop. You can see photographs of all of CG's shades in the Gallery Section of my website.






Why you should make custom Roman shades



I was in the Bahamas for 2 weeks with our family in January. We rented a beautiful house owned by a couple from the Atlanta, Georgia area. It was several years old with high-end furnishings. Of course, I was interested in the window treatments. The sliding doors had simple curtain panels hanging from decorative rods through large grommets. The windows all had Roman shades. When we arrived, all of the shades were lowered and looked quite elegant. They were a linen-type fabric with slats on the fold lines. The pull cords exited a cord lock at the front of the shade. The cord lock and board were covered with a short valance. This is very typical of manufactured shades.



After a few days I noticed that the shades weren't looking so elegant. What had changed? They were being raised and lowered and were no longer hanging evenly. They actually looked as if the cords had broken. Don't you just hate that when your blinds pull up crooked?


The shades were all mounted inside the deep untrimmed window openings. They were actually quite a bit longer than the window opening. Roman shades don't have to be lowered all of the way, so it initially was not obvious that they weren't the correct length for the windows. The shades were also too narrow. There was almost an inch between the side of the shade and the window opening.


The pull cords consisted of two cords exiting the cord lock mechanism. There was some kind of small gadget at the top of each cord that looked much like the plastic orbs sold to help level a shade. I'm guessing they were used to level the shade during installation. They had obviously slipped during repeated operation of the cords. The windows were quite high so I couldn't reach this part of the shade to see how they were adjusted. None of the shades in the house had remained level. I tie a knot at the beginning of the pull cord after leveling the shade. I've never had the knot slip or move. My shades always stay level, even after years of use. This could be done with these shades and I assure you I would have done it if I had easy access to a ladder. I also don't use (or sell) the plastic orbs. I've found that a knot with a dot of glue keeps the lift cords in-place through years of use.



Upon closer examination, the fabric was a foam-backed cotton/polyester blend. The sides were "hemmed" and then the bottom was hemmed. The shades had pockets stitched to the front of the shade. Flat aluminum slats were slipped into the pockets and then the ends were sewn closed. Lift rings with short ribbon loops were stitched into the pocket. There were two columns about 4-inches in from each side of the shade. This technique was also used on a set of shades I saw in France.



I'm guessing that the homeowners ordered these shades online, or purchased them from a chain store in the United States. They all had a Warning Label glued onto the inside bottom of the shade. Our 2 year-old grandson insisted that his mother hook all of the cords up out of reach on every shade in the house after inquiring why she did that on the shade in his bedroom.

I really did like the look of the Roman shades in this house. They were casual and functional. If that were my home, you better believe that I would have made them myself and they would have fit and hung perfectly.

Monday, January 30, 2012

January 11 2012 Newsletter

PhotoView Technique



I am often asked to cover a window that has a beautiful view. Perhaps the client wishes they had a beautiful view. Pieced Roman shades can be designed to create a realistic view using simple straight-line sewing and off-the-shelf fabrics.

These two shades were made for a sunny bathroom. The homeowners collected art and were frustrated with this room, which had no wall space for paintings. They had just returned from a trip to Brazil, where they had taken many photographs of the landscape and old buildings. Reproducing two of those photographs on their windows seemed to be the perfect solution to their dilemma.


Many art quilters have perfected techniques to depict scenes. I am a collector of quilting books and like to take classes from innovative teachers. I modify and unify all of the information I've learned and end up with a technique that works best for me. My PhotoView technique creates a straight-line piecing pattern by simplifying an image into pie-shaped pieces.

I start with a photograph. Ideally, it is correctly proportioned for the window. This photograph was taken by my client, but I usually take my own picture with a point-and-shoot camera.

I use a simple computer drawing program (CorelDraw) to create a straight-line sketch that reproduces the image. You can even blow up the photograph and use tracing paper. I color in the drawing to make fabric selection easier.

I blow up the line drawing to full size. Sometimes I go to a copy shop that has a blueprint copier (up to 400% magnification and 3-foot wide paper). For my last shade, I printed out 16 legal-size sheets and taped them together. It actually worked just as well as the blueprint technique.

I lay freezer paper with the shiny side up on top of the drawing and trace the entire pattern. I cut the freezer paper into separate pieces and end up with "freezer-paper templates" for my design.

I iron the templates onto the wrong side of the fabric and add ¼" seams when I cut the pieces out. The pattern pieces are now sewn back together and create an exact replica of the full-size pattern. I trim and border the piece and make it into a Roman shade or wall hanging. You can see lots of examples of shades made using this technique in the Terrell's Shades section of my Gallery.






My Windows aren't Level


Sara S recently sent this message: "I am attempting to mount three valances over the three sections of my bay window. I used a level to make sure the boards are level, which they are. Well, it turns out that the windows are not level. The ceiling also is not level and it is at a very slightly different angle from the windows. What do I do?"

Many older (and not so old) houses have these "issues". If the house settles or the trim carpenter was in a hurry, your windows are probably not level. You need to stand back and decide what your eye will notice after the window treatments are hung. If the shade or valance is relatively close to the ceiling, I would mount them so that they are parallel with the ceiling. This will certainly work for a valance. If you are hanging a shade, you also need to check how it looks next to the window trim. I'd still place the board parallel to the ceiling and adjust the angle of the shade slightly using the Velcro if necessary. If the shade is being mounted well below the ceiling, I'd place the board so that it is parallel with the top trim of the window. Ultimately you have to say "Good enough!" and appreciate your unique home, even with its mismatched angles.

Wednesday, December 28, 2011

December 28 2011 Newsletter


I love the holidays. My customers are busy with family and friends so our business slows down. I do the most sewing for myself in December. Luckily, this year was no different. I finally completed a pieced Roman shade for the bar area in our Family Room. The shade is made using freezer-paper templates. There are almost 1,000 pieces of individual fabrics sewn together to make the front fabric. You can see more photographs of this shade by clicking on the picture.

I'm sure you will enjoy seeing the photographs of some bedroom shades that were sent to me by a customer. The second article describes how you should join multiple panels of fabric for a wide shade.











Hybrid Mount Shades




These photographs show the two hybrid-mount Roman shades made by Alyssa T of Merion Station, Pennsylvania. She sent this message:

"Thank you for your website and all of the information on it. It was great to be able to order the supplies from you and they arrived so quickly. The hardest part for me was sewing on the rings. I finally hung it from my fireplace and sat on a chair or on the floor to sew them. Maybe you could add a video of how exactly you sew them. But I'm really happy with how it came out! And I love the velcro idea. So simple!

These were my first shades I've made. Not sure if it's beginners luck or more likely all your helpful advice on the website, but they came out just about perfect!"


Alyssa used a hybrid mount for her Classic Roman shades. This means that the shades are made the same size as the window trim and mounted on the trim. This was a great choice since she also has inside-mount cellular shades. You can see larger photographs of Alyssa's shades by going to the Gallery Section of my web site








Joining Fabric Widths



If the required Cut Width of your fabric and/or lining is wider than the width of your fabric, you will have to join two or more fabric widths. Standard practice is to place one full width in the center of the shade and two smaller widths on each side. This is shown in the drawing above. If you will have a lift line running down the center of the shade, it is okay to have a center seam instead. I use a 1/4" seam and press to one side. Don't press the seam open since you might see light through it.

What if your fabric is just a little bit narrower than your shade? Let's say you are making a 56" wide shade and your fabric is 54" wide. It will look pretty silly having a 1" panel on each side of your shade. That will also make sewing your side seams very difficult. I like to have at least 6" side panels. For a 56" wide shade, I would use 6", 44" and 6" panels. That adds up to 56". When you cut the panels, you have to add in the seam allowances. If everything were perfect, the side panels would be cut 7.25" wide (6" + 0.25" seam + 1" side seam ) while the center panel would be cut 44.5" (44" + 0.25" seam + 0.25" seam) wide. However, fabric never sews up perfectly. I cut the center panel to the exact size (44.5" in this case) and I add at least 1-inch to each side panel. That way, if my seam doesn't press completely flat or my one-quarter inch seam is a little bit more than one-quarter inch, my completed front panel won't be too small. After sewing the side seams and pressing the seams out, I put a straight pin at the center of the panel at both the top and bottom of the shade, measure out half the distance for the cut panel (58"/2 = 29" for our example) and trim the excess fabric at each side.

An even easier way to do this is to fold the panel vertically so that the two side seams are laying on top of each other. Measure over half of the cut-width (29" in our example) and trim both sides with one cut.

I use the same rules when joining widths for the lining. However, if I can turn the lining side-ways and "bury" a seam in the hem, I do that. I still use a 1/4" seam and press to one side.

Thursday, December 15, 2011

December 14 2011 Newsletter

Black Toile Shades



This photograph shows three of the seven Roman shades made by Linda M of Mundelein, Illinois, USA. She sent this message: "Although I am an advanced garment sewer, I had never attempted shades. Your clear and concise directions gave me the confidence to tackle the 7 windows in my living room."


Linda continued: "I think they turned out beautifully. I ventured into adding a lower border with a braid insertion."

Linda made a "practice" shade for her Powder Room before making these seven shades. Since she had never made window treatments before, that was a very worthwhile activity. You can see more photographs of Linda's shades by going to the Gallery Section of my web site






InstallationTips


I recently had a question from a customer about installing Roman shades on high windows. I install all of my shades myself. The one exception is if I don't have a ladder that is big enough to reach the top of the window where the mounting board will be attached. In that case, I hire a professional installer.

The "standard" installation method requires crawling under the shade to get at the mounting board. This is because the "standard" construction method staples the shade to the board. I did this only one time and switched to using Velcro to attach the shade to the board. This is a little more expensive (Velcro costs more than a few staples) but dramatically changes the installation experience.


The easiest way to install a shade made with Velcro at the top is to attach the mounting board to the wall or window, partially mate the shade to the board and then string the cords through the flat pulleys or screw eyes. Many of my clients request a cord lock pulley for their shades. Although you can string the cords through the cord lock while standing on a ladder, it is easier to do it on your work table. I cut the lift cords a few yards longer than required so that I can pull the shade off the mounting board and lay it on that little shelf on my step ladder with the cords still threaded through the hardware.

Your window may be so high that you need an extension ladder to reach the top of the window. You can still use this method, but now you need a helper to hold the shade. Make sure to add enough extra lift cord so that it is not pulled out of the hardware. I have even done this alone by placing a couple of chairs under the window to hold the shade. I really hate to ask a client to help me with installation.

This is a great method to use when hanging a Top-Down/Bottom-Up shade. All of the cords can be confusing and pre-stringing your shade on your work table or floor makes installation a lot easier.

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

November 23 2011 Newsletter

What Size Lift Cord should I Use?





We offer lift cord in three diameters: 0.9 mm, 1.4 mm and 1.8 mm. That gives you options, but also means you have to decide which is the correct lift cord size. The Hardware Calculator tells you the required yardage but not the diameter of cord required for your shade. In general, I use the 1.4 mm white lift cord for all of the shades I make. There are, of course, exceptions to this rule.


You have to consider the entire "package" of your particular shade: number of lift cords, weight of fabric, cord drop type, and any hardware limitations. I have just added a new page in the FAQs Section that will help you choose the correct size cord for each shade.

Many of you purchase the lift cord at a local store so let's talk about the other properties the cord must have. It has to be resistant to ultraviolet light, e.g. 100% polyester. Don't use nylon cord (like fishing line) or a cotton/poly mix. The cord should be tightly woven which prevents abrasion and stretching.










Great Room and Kitchen Roman Shades



Sharon C of Bee Cave, Texas USA sent this photograph of the Roman shades she made for her Great Room. The outside mount shades are used for insulation, decoration and to help darken the room. They are hung just under a soft cornice for a more formal look.

Look closely at the photograph. Sharon made TWO sets of Roman shades for each window. The cream-colored inside-mount light filtering Roman shades have button holes at the top so she could feed the cords to the front of the blind. This eliminates "fishing" for the cord. This solution is described in detail in the FAQs/Variations on Roman Shades Section of the website.

Sharon also made a shade for her kitchen. She commented: "I love how the Kitchen shade turned out. I wanted to add some creative element to the Roman shade and decided on a scallop with trim and a tassel in the middle." You can see more photographs of Sharon's shades by going to the Gallery Section of my web site

Friday, November 18, 2011

November 11 2011 Newsletter


It has been an extremely busy 5 weeks. So busy, in fact, that I did not write the October 26th Newsletter. I mentioned briefly in my October 12th Newsletter that we were moving our warehousing/packing operation. On October 7th I learned that the Fulfillment House that has been doing a great job of packing and shipping our orders was closed, perhaps due to a gas leak or other safety issue. The next day we learned that the business had been seized by the State of Colorado for non-payment of taxes. They packed and shipped items for over forty companies, whose inventory was now locked up. It took 2 weeks to get into the building. Meantime I set up temporary packing operations in my garage. Talk about a giant step backwards. We're finally up and running in a new location. We're still a bit disorganized and are taking a few more days to fulfill orders. Every day things get a little better and I see the light at the end of the tunnel.

I've been running this small business since 1994. It allows me great flexibility to do the things I enjoy. I've been thrilled with the growth, particularly over the last three years. But let me tell you, that growth has resulted in many sleepless nights. One just has to keep adapting to new Safety regulations, changing operations, new technology, and new competition. Each challenge that is overcome, results in a feeling of accomplishment. Now if I could just find some time to sew.








Readers' Roman Shades



I am always so pleased when a reader takes the time to send me photographs of her shades. These pictures were sent by Sherry L who lives in the Pacific Northwest. She wanted to maximize the light coming into her kitchen which is on the north side of her home. She also wanted to keep the beautiful molding. Sherry came up with a great solution by using a hybrid mount. The mounting board is attached directly on the top window molding just below the curved portion. The width of the shade was made as if it were an Inside mount. This is a great solution to her situation. Windows are so much fun. Each and every one is unique. You can see a photograph of the entire room by going to the Gallery Section of my web site.


Shawn M of Sparta, New Jersey USA sent this photograph of her first Roman shade project. She used a heavy decorator fabric and did a great job of centering the pattern. She is now embarking upon making five shades for her Family room: 4 windows and a sliding glass door. I hope she sends photographs once she is done with them. You can see a photograph of the entire room by going to the Gallery Section of my web site.






Comment on Prior Newsletter


I got a cute comment from a reader of my September 28th Newsletter.

Dear Terrell, I want to thank you so very much for your web site and all your info in the newsletter. I just finished two Roman shades for our new home, with your help...one on a French door in a bedroom and one on an awning window in the bathroom, using your hardware and battens. I used rip stop fabric to keep with the nautical feel so you are able to see the battens. These being my first shades, I was disappointed until I read over your story about Europe and the pictures that show the battens in France.....what fun! Thank you so very much....if the French can do it....well so can I. Keep up your fabulous work....we love it...you're the greatest! Barbara S .