Swag Bottom Roman Shade

Karen Asks: Wow, thanks Terrell for providing such a comprehensive guide to making Roman shades! I live in Australia, and am interested in adding a swag base(attached picture) to a Roman blind, Do you have any hints, tips or instructions for this particular design?

Terrell Says: It looks like the "swag" is permanent (and very pretty). You should make this as an outside mount shade. Make sure the swag hangs below the window opening when the shade is down.

You will have to play around with the online Hardware Calculator to get the correct folding results. The difference between the Lower Drop and the Fold Depth is the part that "hangs down" when the shade is pulled up. This is called the Retracted Border. Looking at the photograph you sent, you will want the Retracted Border to be at least as long as the Fold Depth. That means the Lower Drop should be about twice the Fold Depth. Another way to approach the folding would be to pretend the shade will drop to 1" below the window opening. Use the Hardware Calculator to determine the best folding to acheive the Stackage you want. Now, add the Fold Depth to the Shade Length.

You can follow the online directions for making a Classic shade. The Modified Lower Drop is now the "added Fold Depth" plus the Lower Drop calculated by the Hardware Calculator. Sew on the lift rings per the online instructions. Now you need to make the swag. Sew two tabs in your front fabric and stitch the tops so that they will be hidden by the first fold when raised. Be sure to turn the raw edges under because they will be visible when the shade is lowered. Place each tab the same distance in from the side of the shade as the swag length. Lay your shade on a working surface with the fabric side up. Pull the tabs to the back of the shade and dress the shag. Pin the tabs in place and turn the shade over and whip stitch the back side of the tabs in place.

Also, you should place the weight rod into a fabric sleeve (which matches your lining) and whip stitch it to the lining at just below the bottom row of lift rings. Cut the weight rod about 1/2" shorter than the width of the shade so that the sides don't pull in.

Here is an example: Your window is 33" wide and 60" long. A typical outside mount shade would be 37" wide (2" extension on each side) and 65" long (4" extra at the top and 1" extra at the bottom). I use the Online Hardware Calculator to determine the folding. I specify Finished Shade Width = 37", Finished Shade Length = 65", Ideal Stackage = 10", Battens = Yes, Cord Lock = No. My Fold Depth is 5.5" (11" between lift rings), number of folds is 10, Lower Drop is 7". Adding the Fold Depth to the Lower Drop, my Modified Lower Drop is 12.5". This is were I place my first (bottom) row of lift rings. I must also add the Fold Depth to the Shade Length, so I will make my shade 65" + 5.5" = 70.5" long. You actually cut the front fabric 8" longer than that, per the online directions (and 2" wider).

Stackage for Two Windows in Same Room

Nancy Asks: I have a window over my sink---41.25" wide and 41.25" long (square). On the same wall, in the eating area, there is a bay window with a window seat--not used as a seat, it has plants on it. The Bay has 2 narrow windows 15.5" wide and 58.5" long and one window in the center that is 39.25" wide and 58.5" long. The Hardware Calculator on your web site calculated for the bay window, that the Stackage would be 9", the # of folds 12, and the fold depth 4.125". On the window over my sink, (41.25" x 41.25") it calculated : Stackage 8", # of folds 14, and fold depth 2.375". My question is: will the fold depth look odd, if one window has a 4.125" depth, and the other a 2.375" depth?

Terrell Says: Having a similar Stackage for the two shades is more important than having the same fold depth. However, I don't like the fact that your sink shade has 14 folds. I suggest that you have a Stackage of 8.75". This brings the number of folds down to 10, with a fold depth of 3.25". (The calculator is kind of quirky. You have to input an Ideal Stackage of 8.25" to get these numbers.)

Now you have the following:
Sink Shade: Stackage 8.75", Fold Depth 3.25", Number of folds 10.
Bay Window Shades: Stackage 9", Fold Depth 4.125", Number of folds 12.

I always try to get the least number of folds. Sometimes you can add only a quarter-inch to the Stackage and get two less folds.

Building Self Confidence when Sewing for Others

Teresa asks: I have just now found your web site. I love it. I wanted to ask you a question since you sew professionally. How do you get your self-confidence up about your sewing and ability to know what you are doing? I know how to sew blinds and curtains but I'm always afraid of messing up someone else's fabric especially when they tell me how much money it cost them. When I go to hang the finished treatment, I'm always afraid something will go wrong or be wrong with what I have made. How do you shake the jitters?

Terrell says: I never have gotten over the jitters when I make a shade for a customer. Just wait until you sew for an interior designer! One of my earliest projects with a designer resulted in my having to lengthen multiple valances by 1/4" because they were too short. Now I measure, measure and measure. I also jump every time the telephone rings for several weeks after I'm installed the job. I'm convinced it will be my customer calling to say there is a problem with the shades.

I'm much better now than when I startied out 14 years ago. I print out cleaning instructions for my shades, beginning with a paragraph about their "hand-made, custom" window treatment. I point out that there may be slight irregularities in hems, seams, etc. and that this adds to their charm. This sets the stage and seems to make clients less critical. You're going to have complainers and you're going to make things the wrong size. Every seamstress does. I found that I made more mistakes several years after starting my business since I thought I'd finally learned how to do things right. Now I seldom goof and I even have the nerve to call a client a week after installing treatments and asking if everything is okay. The call is really hard to make, but I sleep better after I've done it.

If you act like a professional (and you do have to "act" in the beginning), then your customers will treat you like one. Just remember that you are offering a very valuable service. Very few people know how to sew and you are giving them the custom look they want. Good luck with your business.

Increasing Shade Cutting Width for Heavy Fabrics

Katie asks: I am wondering about your note on your web site to add 1/4" to the cut fabric width if using a heavy fabric. I do plan on using an upholstery/decor fabric, so I'm wondering when I type in my dimensions to the Hardware Calculator do I add that 1/4" or do I just add it when measuring my fabric? I am trying to avoid all mess ups!

Terrell says: You type in the desired Finished Shade Width in the Hardware Calculator. This will give you the recommended number of folds and your hardware requirements for your shade. You need to ADD 1/4" to the cut width of both the front fabric and lining in order for your sewn shade to end up the correct dimension when using heavy fabrics and/or blackout lining. This is because it is nearly impossible to press the side seam completely flat with thick fabrics. By adding 1/4" to the cut width, you eliminate this problem. This is especially important if you are making an Inside Mount shade. You already have extra fabric at the top of the shade, so you don't need to make an adjustment in the cut length.

Inside Mount Shade on Small Depth Window Trim

Sandy asks: My window has beautiful woodwork so I want to make an Inside Mount Roman shade. You recommend using a 1x2 board for the headrail. I just measured my window and I have less than 1-1/2" depth. How can I do an inside mount? (Sandy has noted the area where she wants to mount her shade in the photograph.)

Terrell says: A 1x2 board is actually smaller than 1" by 2". A larger piece of wood is scribed in 1" intervals and 2" intervals. Because of the width of the saw blade used to cut it into the final 1x2 boards, the actual dimensions are usually 3/4" by 1-3/4". The typical inside mount arrangement is for the mounting board to be placed in a "projected" configuration, screwed into the inside top of the window opening.

You still have a problem with an inside mount since the depth of your trim where you want to install your shade is only 1-1/2" deep. Looking at the photograph you sent of the entire window, I am assuming that you will be making one large Roman shade. That is the recommended approach for a window like yours with multiple panes in one decorative wood frame.

I have made many shades for similar windows. One of my favorite can be seen below. It is made of four fabrics. You can see when the shade is raised that the light-tan fabric is pieced to mimic the wood trim separating the three windows.

I used a 1x2 mounted "flat" on this window. You use a 3" wood or drywall screw that will extend a little over 1" past the mounting board into the window trim. I pre-drill the hole all the way through the 2" side of the board. Just be careful to drill perpendicular to the board as you don't have much latitude for angling the screw. Another option is to use a 1"x1" board. They are more expensive than a 1x2, so I usually don't bother unless the hardware will be visible from outside the window mounted on a 1x2.

Purchasing Fabric

Erin asks: I'm hoping you can help me determine how much front fabric to purchase.

Terrell says: It is best to take your pattern to the fabric store with you. (Directions for sketching your own pattern can be found at: http://www.terrelldesigns.com/howto-plandesign.htm). Fabrics come is many different widths. Quilting cottons are usually 40" to 45" wide. Decorator fabrics are often 54" wide, but may also be 48" wide. You may purchase a fabric with a "repeat" and need to account for centering it across your shade. The clerks at the fabric store are usually more than willing to help you determine the amount of fabric you need.

If your shade is narrow (less than 38" wide), you will only need to buy one length (Finished Shade Length plus 8" for a Classic Roman shade or plus 10" for a Top-Down shade). If your shade is wider, you might have to join two or more lengths. There are no hard and fast rules since each shade is a different dimension and each bolt of fabric is a different width. Be sure you measure the "use-able width", not the selvage-to-selvage width. It is recommended that you place the length of the fabric so that it runs vertical on your shade. Your shade will look better if you place a full width of fabric in the center of the shade. I ALWAYS cut the side panels several inches wider than required, sew the vertical seams (use a 1/4" seam allowance and press the seams to the outside). Then I trim the shade to the correct cut width.

Bottom Weight Rod

Diane asks: At which point in the shade construction process do I add the bottom weight rod? I just want to clarify that I add the weight rod before I sew the lining to the front fabric at the sides.

Terrell says: No, you don't insert the weight rod before you sew the side seams. The very last step is to add the weight rod. You cut a small hole in the hem of the lining and drop in the rod. I usually wait until I've installed the shade to do it.

Using a hack saw, cut the weight rod 1.25" shorter than the Finished Width of your shade. File off any burrs. Using a seam ripper, cut a small slit near the top of the lining hem on the inside of the shade. Be sure to only cut through 1 or 2 layers (there are 3 layers of lining in the hem). Drop the weight rod into the lining hem. If you are using Thermalsuede or Blackout lining, there is no need to close the opening since they don't ravel. If you are using a woven lining, you can use Fray Check. I like to leave the small hole so that I can remove the rod if necessary.

Why do you need a weight rod? A weight rod in the bottom of the shade does two things. First, it makes the shade hang better. Second, it makes the shade fall down correctly. If you don't use a weight rod (or you use one that is too light, such as a wooden dowel rod), your shade will tend to "catch" before it is all the way down. You (and the neighbor's kids with sticky hands) will be pulling the bottom of the shade down the last 5-10 inches. So add that weight rod to make it fall nicely.